Musings of a wanderer.

Burans, Bugiyals and Bhotias - A Trip to Chopta and Tungnath

Burans blooms at Chopta

Route: Dehradun – Rishikesh – Devprayag – Srinagar – Rudraprayag – Agastyamuni – Kund -Ukhimath – Duggalbittha – Chopta – Tungnath

Click here for detailed route map

Burans blooms in countless shades of red and pink

Carmine, coral, crimson, pink, mauve, scarlet… yes the human eye can distinguish ten million colours. But it was my mind that was boggling at the countless shades of 'burans' (rhododendron) blooms that covered the steep mountainsides. I was dizzy and light-headed, drunk on the sheer beauty of nature… Deep blue skies with powder-puff clouds, verdant green 'bugiyals' (high-altitude meadows), lofty mountains topped with pristine snow… and then there were the 'burans' trees, huddled cozily on the slopes and weighed down with flowers in every possible shade of red, pink and mauve. The sensory overload was extreme and being at a height of 12,000 feet above sea level added to the stupor. But wait… let us rewind a bit to the beginning of the journey that brought us to this piece of heaven on earth.

Starting off

On the road near Shivpuri

The KDMIPE Campus at Dehradun, which is usually peopled with serious looking ONCGians, was abuzz with excitement at six in the morning of 19^th April 2013. 25 families of ONGCians in 20 cars were all set for the ONGCHA (ONGC Himalayan Association) Car Rally to Chopta in the Chamoli district of Uttarakhand. With a distance of 255 kilometers to be covered, all of us were rearing to leave as soon as possible. As the yellow flag waved us off, our green Ford Figo along with the other cars purred out of the campus gates. The yellow stickers on the windscreens identified the rally cars and the convoy snaked through the forests of Lachhiwala, Dhalwala and then touched NH 58 at Rishikesh. The highway followed the sinuous curves of the Ganga and we could see its blue-green waters and the colourful rafting camps on the silvery beaches.

'Alu-parathas' at Teen dhara

'Dhabas' at Teendhara

After Kaudiyala, the road parted with the Ganga for a while and rose steadily up till we were on top of the ridge and could see range after purple range of the lesser Himalayas. Breakfast at Teendhara, 60 km from Rishikesh, was a leisurely affair, with yummy 'aalu parathas' and 'dahi', washed down with hot, sweet tea. 10 kilometers ahead, Devprayag was teeming with colourful pilgrims offering prayers at the confluence of the Bhagirathi and Alaknanda which merged to form the Ganga.

Bhagirathi and Alaknanda merging at Devprayag

Bidding farewell to the Bhagirathi, we headed right along the Alaknanda and after passing through the twin towns of Kiritnagar and Srinagar, reached Rudraprayag – where the Mandakini joins with the Alaknanda. Leaving the NH 58 which follows the Alaknanda and finally reaches Badrinath and Mana, we turned left and followed the NH 109 into the Mandakini valley.

Mandakini river

Mandakini valley at Chandrapuri

It was nearing lunch-time and our group decided that we’d stop for lunch somewhere after Rudraprayag. But as the 'yatra' season had not yet started, most of the 'dhaba's we came across were closed. Finally we found a delightful GMVN hotel at Chandrapuri, 25 km from Rudraprayag by the banks of the Mandakini. While the staff was busy preparing fresh dal-chawal and sabzi for our group, we sat by the river side and the kids, delighted to be out of the car, splashed about in the cool waters of the river.

GMVN at Chandrapuri

A Crested kingfisher at Chandrapuri

Lunch over, we hit the road again which followed the Mandakini flowing gracefully through a lovely valley peppered with white 'kachnar' blooms. 15 kilometres further at Kund, the road bifurcated – the one along the river leading to Gaurikund and thence Kedarnath and the other ascending up the mountains towards Ukhimath.

Road washed away by heavy rains

On the dusty alternative route

Heavy rains in 2012 had washed away a kilometer long stretch of the road a little before Ukhimath and we had to traverse a roughly hewn, dusty track, clinging precariously to the steep mountainside, which formed the alternative route.

Road after Ukhimath

Through the forest

Once past this bumpy and dusty stretch, our tired eyes beheld a vista of emerald terraced fields interspersed with quaint village houses and the towering massif of the Chandrashilla at the head of the valley. The kids, excited to see snow on the peaks ahead, stuck their heads out of the windows and took in long breaths of the pristine mountain air. Soon the fields gave way to forests and the golden evening sun filtering through the trees lent the scene a surreal touch. Blood-red rhododendron petals carpeted the road in places and we felt that we were being lovingly welcomed by Mother Nature.

Villages along the way

The sign for Magpie Resorts

22 kilometers after Ukhimath we came to a solitary board in the middle of the jungle proclaiming that the Magpie resort lay 200 metres off the road. Rhea and I walked up to the resort to check if we were to be accommodated there or at Mayadeep resorts, the two places where the group was to be lodged. The paved track through the jungle opened onto a gently rolling meadow, edged by a row of swiss-tents and towering, snow covered peaks standing guard behind them. We were awestruck at the superb view and hoped fervently that we’d be lodged here.

Magpie Resorts

Mayadeep Resorts

But the lists had already been prepared and Dignata’s family and ours had been assigned a large, comfortable room at the Mayadeep resort, which was half a kilometer ahead. A wide path led down to this resort, which faced a small dell with a tiny stream flowing across and rocky cliff-face topped with a thick jungle. As it was around 5:30 in the evening and the sun had already hidden behind the mountains, the air was full of the chirping of birds returning to their nests, preparing to roost for the night. I was thrilled to spot a group of Yellow-billed blue magpies and a couple of Eurasian jays apart from the raucous bunch of Large-billed crows. An ideal location for bird-watching!

Duggalbittha

Our Maggi 'dhaba'

After settling our stuff in the room, we trudged up to the main road and had a round of tea and Maggi at a cozy little dhaba. Apart from two resorts and a couple of makeshift dhabas lining the main road leading to Chopta, Duggalbitta boasts of a PWD rest house. As we slurped the chilly-hot Maggi, the velvet sky was soon dotted with thousands of twinkling stars… so numerous that I could hardly distinguish the constellations that were so familiar to me in the city. But the nippy wind prevented too long a session of star-gazing and we hastily returned to our cozy room.

Soon dinner was announced and we all gathered under the bellowing circular tent by the resort building for a simple yet sumptuous meal. Rajeev, the team leader briefed the members about the next day’s plan which was to drive to Chopta at 8 the next morning and from there start the trek to Tungnath shrine. Lights would soon be out (no electricity… so the generator is switched on only from 7 to 9 in the evening) and the day’s tiredness was making itself evident. Soon we all snuggled into our cozy quilts and it wasn’t long before we all were walking in slumber land.

Verditer flycatcher

A pair of Scarlet minivets

Early next morning, Rajesh and I decided to do a spot of bird-watching before the others got up… and we didn’t have to venture out too far. The entire area around the resort was abuzz with avian activity. Scarlet minivets, Verditer flycatchers, Green-backed tits, Blackbirds were all frolicking in the crisp mountain air. Though it was a little cloudy and we could not see the perennial snow ranges, it seemed like a good day for trekking. Fortified with a hearty breakfast of 'aalu-sabzi' and 'parathas', the group was soon ready the hit the road and by 8:30, the convoy of ONGCHA rally cars was zipping up to Chopta.

Sheep grazing on the hillside

A 'bhotia' with it's neck-band

The 8 kilometer drive took us through a bucolic landscape of small meadows sprinkled lavishly with sheep grazing serenely under the watchful eyes of shaggy 'bhotia' dogs. All of these hardy mountain dogs had spiked metal bands around their necks... a protection against leopards which attack the neck of their prey to bring them down.

Road to Chopta

Start of the track to Tungnath

As we parked our car at Chopta, our eyes opened in amazement at the numerous 'burans' trees that were in full bloom all around us. The entire mountainside was cloaked in a mantle of red and pink flowers and the non-stop sound of camera clicks bore witness to the fact that all of us were equally bewitched by this grand show of nature.

Trekking to Tungnath

Along the way...

'Burans' blooms

The initial part of the 3 kilometer trek was through this flowery paradise and it seemed we were walking in a Japanese painting… complete with blossoms and stone-flagged paths. The 'burans' trees soon gave way to rolling green 'bugiyals' with stupendous views of the valley below and the peaks ahead. Small patches of snow now lined the path in places and Rhea and Riyan were soon engrossed in a snow-ball fight along with the other kids.

Near the 'bugiyals'

The track to Tungnath

A friendly 'bhotia', unanimously christened Jackie, assigned himself as our group’s guide and trotted along with the kids, waiting patiently whenever they stopped to catch their breaths. A solitary 'monal' with its iridescent feathers glowing in the sunlight foraged placidly on the grassy slopes, oblivious to the mass of humanity trudging up and down the path.

Meeting Jackie

Taking a break with Jackie

The sky suddenly darkened with clouds and, much to the kid’s excitement, flurries of snow began floating down and settling on our hair and clothes. We were now above the tree-line and though the tip of Chandrashilla could be seen in the distance, there was still around a kilometer and a half of steep ascent to Tungnath. Thankfully the weather cleared and by the time we reached the temple, bright sunlight was bouncing off the snow that lay all around us.

Trekking to Tungnath

First view of Tungnath with Chandrashilla in the background

Helping the kids over the slippery patches

A pony at Tungnath

Slipping and sliding on the snow-covered path we finally reached the ‘dwar’ to ring the massive brass bell, grateful for our safe climb. The bright yellow door of the massive stone temple was sealed as the idol was still at its winter abode in Mukunath and would be brought here in the first week of May. The 2 kilometer path up to Chandrashilla (12,008 feet) was buried under a thick layer of snow and so the sumitting of the peak was not possible… giving us an excuse to return to this enchanting land another time.

At the 'dwar' of the temple

Tungnath temple

'Burans' blooming all over the mountainside

The walk down, though more punishing for the knees, was easier on our lungs, giving us ample opportunities to soak in the lovely views. At a small tea-stall with a picturesque view, approximately midway on the route, we stopped for tea and the ubiquitous Maggi. Sitting by the path, with the cool breeze ruffling our hair and the bright sun beaming benignly on us, I felt rejuvenated and at peace. The crisp mountain air made visibility so good that we could see fields and villages that were miles down in the valley. The lofty peaks with their mantle of snow stood majestically behind and the rolling green 'bugiyals' lay invitingly below. Wanting to savor this beauty a much as possible, we sipped our sweet teas slowly and tried hard to delay our departure. But leave we had to, and as we trundled down the path I felt sorely disinclined to return to the humdrum of city life.

'Dhaba' midway down the track

View on the way down

Trekking down to Chopta

We passed a ‘sadhu’ on his way up to the temple. With all his earthly possessions on his back and a beatific smile on his face, he seemed supremely content with life. Next we came across a group of locals, trudging up the steep path, supporting enormous asbestos sheets on their heads. This was in preparation for the ‘yatra’ season when hundreds of 'dhabas' and shacks would mushroom along the trail to serve the multitude of pilgrims that visit the Panch Kedars. Then came our only sighting of wildlife on this trip… a cute Large-eared pika peeping shyly from it’s burrow in the embankment.

A 'sadhu' on his way to the temple

Carrying a heavy load

A Large-eared pika

Chopta

Chopta from a distance

By 3 in the afternoon we reached Chopta and after a refreshing cup of tea at one of the 'dhabas' along the main road, returned to Mayadeep resort.

Volley ball match at Magpie Resorts

A friendly volleyball match between the Mayadeep ONGCians and Magpie ONGCians was organized in the evening in the sprawling meadow near the Magpie resort. This was followed by some singing and dancing to local Garhwali tunes. An early dinner was arranged by the helpful staff at Mayadeep Resort so that we all could snuggle into our beds early.

Snow-capped peaks - view from Duggalbittha

The morning dawned bright and clear offering us a stupendous view of the Chaukhamba, Banderpoonch and Nanda Devi peaks. It had snowed in the higher reaches during the night and we could see the Chandrashilla covered in a fresh blanket of snow. After a sumptuous breakfast, we all piled into our cars and soon the cars were snaking down towards Ukhimath.

Entrance to the Omkareshwar temple

Omkareshwar temple at Ukhimath

The Omkareshwar temple at Ukhimath is the winter abode of the Kedarnath and Madhmaheshwara idols and we stopped here to pay our obeisance. Next stop was at Tilwara, a few kilometers before Rudraprayag for tea and Maggi and then we were back on the NH 58, winding along the Alaknanda.

On the way to Rudraprayag

Jacaranda blooms at Rudraprayag

At Kirtinagar we stopped for lunch at a spanking new restaurant on the highway. Kaudiyala was chosen for a tea break and by eight in the night we were back home in Dehradun... a roundabout journey of over 500 kilometers!